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| Tokyo Travel From Wikitravel, the free travel guide. Tokyo is the capital of Japan. While Bill Murray received all the critical acclaim for his performance in the 2003 hit film "Lost in Translation," many have argued that it was in fact the city of Tokyo that was the real star. Alas, as most of the film is set in an hotel, it's probably the customs and manners of an aspect of Japanese life that are the true stars. Tokyo brings the most modern wonders of technology, commerce and architecture side by side with the old, and has something for everyone. At over 12 million people, Tokyo is one of the biggest cities in the world. It is also huge and varied in its geography, with over 2,000 square kilometers to explore. The Tokyo Metropolitan District includes 23 central wards (ku) near the bay and several outlying cities and towns to the west. There are even a couple of Pacific islands that are officially part of Tokyo. You will find the biggest crowded high-rise districts, but also shambling old wooden low-rise neighborhoods, and even mountainous parks.
Tokyo is a mega-metropolis. Major districts of interest to travelers are highlighted below. Some of the cities of interest include
Over 400 years old, the city of Tokyo grew from the modest fishing village of Edo. The former seat of the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Imperial family moved to the city after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The metropolitan center of the country, Tokyo is the modern destination for business, education, culture, and government. (That's not to say that rivals such as Osaka won't dispute those claims.) Language. It's easier than ever for English speakers to navigate their way around Tokyo without speaking any Japanese. Signs at subway and train stations include the station names in romaji (Romanized characters). There are also many districts of Tokyo (such as Roppongi) with establishments that cater specifically to gaijin (foreigners). Once you've decided to venture beyond the gaijin scene, however, the language barrier is more likely to become a problem, so it can be helpful to know some tips for ordering in restaurants, shopping in stores, and asking for directions. Expenses. The cost of living in Tokyo is not as astronomical as it once was. Deflation and market pressures have helped to make costs in Tokyo comparable to most other large cities. Visitors from San Francisco, New York or London will not be at all surprised. Travelers should budget a similar amount of money for their stay in Tokyo as they would for any other great city in Europe or North America. Locals will know the bargains, but experienced cheapskates from anywhere in the world can get by with a little ingenuity. Send your bags into town before you arrive - Tokyo is crowded. Lugging even a moderately sized suitcase through the subways and up and down stairs can be a nightmare. So, what can you do? Use the ubiquitous delivery services (takkyuubin) which give cheap, dependable, fast service to anywhere. How does it work? At any airport or major station, look for a sign that says "Baggage Delivery" or something similar. The most common company is called Kuroneko. Their black-on-yellow logo of a mother cat carrying a baby cat is easy to spot anywhere. Write your hotel address, pay a small fee based on size and distance, and simply collect your bag the next day at your hotel. This works the same way on departure. Most hotels and even many convenience stores will take care of this for you. The service is extremely dependable. You can send almost any shape or size of bags (even a bicycle) to the airport ahead of time. They are never late and always in good condition. Just pick up your stuff in the airport lobby. It sure makes getting to the airport a breeze. It even makes intercity travel easy if you have a lot of stuff.
Almost all international services fly into Narita Airport (NRT), inconveniently located nearly 70 kilometers northeast of Tokyo. The airport has two terminals, Terminal 1 for major foreign airlines (e.g. United, British Airways) and Terminal 2 for Japanese airlines and smaller foreign airlines. Each terminal has its own train station, and there is a free shuttle bus between them. There are two train lines from Narita and both will get you into Tokyo. The JR line connects conveniently to Tokyo station (for shinkansen - "bullet trains" - to the rest of Japan) while the Keisei line has direct trains to Haneda airport, as well as central Tokyo. The Keisei line is the cheaper option but requires the most skill to figure out what you want and where you are going. It does, however, provide the most hassle-free service to Haneda and Ginza. The fastest and most expensive way into Tokyo is the Japan Rail (JR) Narita Express into Tokyo Station for about \3,000; note that the train is free if you have a Japan Rail Pass. Keisei's Skyliner service costs less than \2,000 but goes to Ueno instead. Both services require reservations and guarantee you a seat. The budget option is the ordinary Keisei train, which costs less than \1,000, but takes ten minutes longer, is often crowded at rush hour (although boarding at Narita is rarely a problem) and may prove confusing for first-timers as not all trains terminate in Ueno. Some Keisei trains run through to the Toei Asakusa subway line, which goes to Asakusa and Ginza. If you have a JR pass then you should exchange it at the JR ticket counter and use it to reserve your train into Tokyo and possibly your onward train from Tokyo if the latter is a shinkansen. If you do not have a JR pass then a JR train is generally the most expensive way to get to/from Narita, with the Keisei the cheapest and the bus somewhere in between. There is also a network of Airport Limousine shuttle buses that serve most major hubs within Tokyo, stopping at major hotels. Prices are comparable to the express train services, but are convenient for the first-time traveler as they take you directly to your hotel. The Airport Limousine is also the best way to transfer to Haneda Airport. There are Citibank cash machines once you leave customs on the arrivals floor of both terminals. Narita has a large number of hotels in the vicinity and they are often cheaper than hotels in central Tokyo thus it may be worthwhile staying out at the airport on your first/last night. If you want to get a cheap rate, however, do book in advance as rates and availability for walk up customers are highly variable. Most domestic services, as well as the shuttle service to Seoul, fly into Haneda Airport (HND). The easiest way from Haneda to the city is the Tokyo Monorail to Hamamatsucho, from where you can connect to almost anywhere in Tokyo on the JR Yamanote line. The other, slightly cheaper alternative is the private Keikyu line to Shinagawa and Yokohama. International services to Seoul leave from a separate terminal, connected to the main domestic terminal by a free shuttle bus that runs every 5 minutes. There is a frequent intercity shinkansen service to and from Tokyo, Ueno and Shinagawa stations. The Japan Rail Pass can be purchased which allows unlimited rides on all trains except the Nozomi. It is important to note that these passes can only be purchased outside of Japan (see http://wwhw.japanrailpass.net/eng/en05.html for locations). Shibuya and Shinjuku stations offer local connections to the west. Ueno and Ikebukuro stations connect you to the northern suburbs and neighboring prefectures. While you can drive into the city, it's really not recommended as the city can be congested, signs may be confusing and parking fees are astronomical. Highway bus services link Tokyo to other cities, resort areas and the surrounding prefectures. There are JR and private bus companies. Bus service may be cheaper, but the train is probably more convenient. If you have a JR pass, then stick with the trains. One of the great ports of the world, Tokyo also has domestic ferry services to other points in Japan. Railway service within Tokyo is provided by JR, the two subway networks, and various private lines. If you are planning to do any train travel in Tokyo, the first thing you should do is familiarize yourself with the JR Yamanote Line (山手線). The Yamanote is a commuter line that runs in a loop around central Tokyo, and effectively defines the geography of the city. Almost all inter-regional JR lines and private lines start at a station on the Yamanote. All of JR's commuter lines are color-coded, and the Yamanote is green. The JR Chuo (orange) and Sobu (yellow) lines run side-by-side, bisecting the Yamanote loop from Shinjuku on the west to Tokyo on the east. As they are mainly designed to carry commuters from the suburbs into and across town, they are not very useful for travelers. JR's other commuter lines, the Saikyo and Keihin-Tohoku, run off the rim of the Yamanote loop to the north and south. Tokyo has an extensive subway network. It is inexpensive (\160-\300), frequent, and sometimes practically the only choice for a place like Roppongi (far from nearby JR station). Two companies operate a subway service - the Tokyo Metro, which has a larger network, and Toei, which runs primarily commuter lines. Unfortunately you cannot change train lines between Tokyo Metro and Toei without buying a new ticket. A number of private commuter lines radiate from the Yamanote loop far out into the outlying wards and suburbs, and almost all connect through to subway lines within the loop. The private lines are useful for day trips outside the city, and are slightly cheaper than the JR. All train stations are equipped with automated vending machines. Fares are based on distance, and the minimum fare (1-3 stations) ranges from \110-\170 depending on the line. If you can't figure out how much it is to the destination, you can buy the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the end. Most vending machines will let you buy a single ticket that covers a transfer between JR, subway and private lines, all the way to your destination. Prepaid fare cards are extremely convenient, allowing you to slip in and slip out without having to know how much the fare is. Passnet cards can be used on all the subways and private lines in Tokyo. JR has its own fare card system, called IO-Card. Both are sold in denominations of \1,000, \3,000, and \5,000. JR also has a rechargeable contact-less smart card called Suica. As it requires a \500 deposit and is designed to be combined with a commuter pass, it is not especially advantageous for travelers. Many of the private lines interoperate with the subways, which can occasionally make a single ride seem unreasonably expensive as you are in essence transferring to another line and fare system, even though you're still on the same train. It pays to check your route beforehand. All train lines in Tokyo run from around 05:00 to 01:00. During peak hours they run about once every three minutes; even during off-peak hours it's less than ten minutes between trains. Taxis are pricey, but may be a value for groups of three compared to the subway. Fares generally start at about \600 and can mount rapidly. Do not count on your taxi driver knowing more than the best-known locations. If possible, get a business card, or print out the address in Japanese of any specific places you wish to go. The few areas within Tokyo that aren't easily accessible by train are served by various bus companies. Buses have a fixed fare regardless of distance (typically \200), and fares are not transferrable. Compared to the trains, the buses run much less frequently, carry fewer passengers, and are much slower. This makes them amenable to the elderly residents of Tokyo, but rather inconvenient for travelers, who will also have to deal with complicated routes and lack of information in English. If you're looking for a viewing platform, the Tokyo Tower is the best known choice. It costs money to go up, however. A much better choice - while not quite as high - is the Tokyo City Hall in Shinjuku. Its twin towers have viewing platforms that are absolutely free, and still offer a great view over Tokyo. A recent addition to the viewing platforms around Tokyo is Tokyo City View in Roppongi Hills. Admission to the viewing deck is \1,500, but gives you a 360o view of the city from 250 meters above sea level. The city is dotted with museums, large and small, which center on every possible interest from pens to antique clocks to traditional and modern arts. At \500 to \1,000 or more, entrance fees can add up quickly. Many of the largest museums are clustered around Ueno.
The curious can study traditional culture such as tea ceremony, calligraphy, or martial arts such as Karate, Judo, Aikido and Kendo. There are also many language schools to help you work on your Japanese. Several universities in Tokyo cater to international students at the undergraduate or graduate level. Teaching English (or to a lesser extent, other foreign languages) is perhaps the easiest way to work in Japan. Tokyo also offers more work options than other areas: everything from restaurant work to IT. Work permits can be hard to come by and will take time. Consult your local Japanese consulate/embassy as far in advance as possible. If it is for sale anywhere in the world, you can probably also buy it in Tokyo - at a price. Items to look for include electronics, funky fashions, antique furniture and kimono, and specialty items like Hello Kitty goods, anime and comics, and their associated paraphernalia. Ever since Sony and Nikon became synonymous with high-tech quality, Tokyo has been a favored place for buying electronics and cameras. Though the lines have blurred since the PC revolution, each has its own territory and stores: Akihabara has the electronics stores and Shinjuku has the camera stores, and both now sell mostly computers. There are branches in other major areas, but each side stays out of the other's traditional territory and products. The discount chains have better prices than small local retailers, but prices basically don't vary from one to the other. So if you know what you want, don't waste your time comparison shopping. Selection can vary, though, and one brand might be cheaper than a similar item at a different store. Bargaining for major items is expected, but the salespeople probably have prepared scripts for a week's worth of "this is normally as low as we can go, but hey, just for you..." Tokyo has more restaurants than you can possible imagine. Menus are often posted outside, so you can check the prices. Some shops have the famous plastic food in their front windows. Don't hesitate to drag the waiting staff out to the front to point at what you want. Lunch is generally a great deal. If you want to try some fancy food, or you hear of a really top notch restaurant, try lunchtime. This is one of the best ways to try the same dishes without emptying your wallet. The food is still good, there is plenty of it, but it is cheaper than dinner. Always carry cash. Many restaurants will not accept plastic. Go to the convenience store. Really, the options may surprise you. Also, look for bento shops. These sell take-out lunch boxes. They range in quality and cost, but most offer good, basic food at a reasonable price. This is what students and office workers often eat. Noodle shops and curry shops are often the best option for people eating on the cheap. They are everywhere. Good options for better food that won't break the bank include okonomiyaki, tempura, and chain "family restaurants" such as Royal Host or Gusto. There are also a myriad of cheap Italian places such as the "To The Herbs" chain. Also, the basement of almost any department store will have a huge array of small shops selling all kinds of prepared take-out food. Go to Mitsukoshi, Matsuzakaya, or Isetan for a delicious picnic that may fall a bit on the pricy side. On the other hand, we're talking sushi, not ham sandwiches. Hit Roppongi for establishments which specialize in serving foreigners. Visit Shibuya for cool nightclubs, dancing, and live music. Shimokitazawa is full of good bars and restaurants and is popular with students and 20/30-somethings. The Kabukicho red light district in Shinjuku is worth a visit and has some good music in "live houses". You will find good little bars and restaurants everywhere. You will also find that you are never far from a beer vending machine in Tokyo. Most drinking is done in restaurants. Cheaper bar and grill type places are called izakaya. You can get all kinds of food and drink. The cheaper chain izakaya usually have picture menus, so ordering is simple. Some popular izakaya chains include Tsubohachi and Shirakiya. If you want a Western-style bar that serves drinks but is not a restaurant, try any of the higher end hotels. This will cost you, though, and you may want to dress up a bit. There are thousands of hotels in the Tokyo area, ranging from cheap to very expensive. They are distributed throughout the city, with some of the high end and the low end almost everywhere. Capsule hotels are generally the cheapest option. They may reluctant to play host to foreigners as there are quite a few rules of behavior which may be difficult to explain. 24-hour comic book library/internet cafes have become common around Tokyo. This is one of the cheapest ways to crash if you miss your last train and need to wait for the early morning transit service to get started. No bed, but you have a comfy chair and a PC and/or DVDs if you can't sleep. Keep an eye out for what is called a business hotel. Staff may speak minimal English, but it's not too hard to figure out. The Tokyu Stay chain is one of the best values for money. Rooms start at around 80USD per night. Internet access and breakfast are included at no additional fee. All have a washer/dryer in the room. Kitchenettes are also available. Another option is staying at a ryokan (Japanese inn), which are inexpensive and give you a taste of Japanese culture. The Japanese-style rooms are typically covered by tatami mats with futons to sleep on and a Japanese low table, and the owners can be very friendly. If you are traveling solo, you are out of luck, but Japan's infamous love hotels can be a reasonable (and interesting) option for couples in Tokyo. If you're really going to spend the night, be sure to check in for a "stay" rather than a "rest". You can spend a fortune on accommodation in Tokyo. Most of the high-end international chains are well represented.
Good connections are available at Internet cafes everywhere. Expect to pay \400-\500 per hour. "Gera Gera" is a popular chain. Paid WiFi service is also taking off in Tokyo with reasonable coverage - at a price. WiFi services are probably not convenient for those just visiting. Tokyo is probably one of the safest cities you will ever visit. Violent crime is rare - even late at night. The police really are a resource you can turn to for help. You will rarely find yourself far from a a local police substation (koban). These are typically staffed by one or two police officers. Don't hesitate to go to the koban if you are lost, they have great local maps (in Japanese). Some police officers will also speak basic English. Give them a try. Also, if you carry travel insurance, report any thefts or lost items at the koban. They may have forms in English as well as Japanese. Still in a jam? Call [Tokyo English Life Line] 03-5774-0992 Daily 09:00 - 23:00. Dial 110 for police, 119 for fire and ambulance service. For those going to Narita airport from Tokyo, the JR rail service offers a "Narita Express Train" (or NEXT). You can board this train from the Tokyo, Ueno, and Shinjuku stations. Tickets cost approximately \3,000. Another option is the limousine bus service from most large hotels. You do not need to be a guest to book tickets from a hotel. As an added plus, you may be able to check your bags at the hotel until your bus departure. This is a great help for a last few hours of unencumbered sight seeing before you take off. Places to explore near Tokyo:
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